Traditional versus modern Cao Lau — which wins?

I've now had Cao Lau prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises star anise broth in the way Vietnamese cuisine shows French colonial influence alongside traditional Southeast Asian techniques. The light and herbal character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a home cooking class context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. bia hoi draught beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.