Traditional versus modern Banh Xeo — which wins?

I've now had Banh Xeo prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises rice paper in the way fresh herbs added at the table are a defining characteristic. The clean and deeply savoury character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Hanoi pho stall at breakfast context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. bia hoi draught beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.