Traditional versus modern Bienmesabe — which wins?

I've now had Bienmesabe prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Queso de mano fresh cheese in the way the arepa is Venezuela's daily bread — eaten at all meals in countless configurations. The hearty and comforting character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family hallacas making session at Christmas context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Malta dark malt drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.