Traditional versus modern Syrniki — which wins?

I've now had Syrniki prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises pork fat in the way many dishes are tied to Orthodox religious calendar. The earthy and hearty character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a village-style restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. smetana with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.