Ingredient appreciation — what makes Holubtsi special

What sets Holubtsi apart is the handling of beetroot. In lesser versions this is treated as a background note. Here it's central and the earthy and hearty result shows it. I've started buying it to cook with at home after this experience.

Ukrainian cuisine reflects centuries of agricultural abundance. The a village-style restaurant atmosphere was right for this kind of food. I had smetana as recommended and it matched well. If you want to understand what makes this cuisine distinctive, Holubtsi is the place to start.