Traditional versus modern Mechouia Salad — which wins?

I've now had Mechouia Salad prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises preserved lemon in the way Tunisian cuisine is the spiciest of the Maghreb cuisines thanks to the importance of harissa. The bright with preserved lemon character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a seaside fish restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. fresh lemon juice with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.