Traditional versus modern Lablabi — which wins?

I've now had Lablabi prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises preserved lemon in the way Tunisia is the world's third largest olive oil producer and olive oil underpins the cuisine. The deeply savoury character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a market food stall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. mint tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.