Traditional versus modern Pad See Ew — which wins?

I've now had Pad See Ew prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises galangal in the way fresh herbs and aromatics are added at the last moment to preserve fragrance. The deeply aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Bangkok street stall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Thai iced tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.