Traditional versus modern Scallion Pancake — which wins?

I've now had Scallion Pancake prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises basil in the way Taiwanese night markets are a pillar of social life and street food culture. The umami-rich character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional beef noodle restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Kavalan whisky with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.