Traditional versus modern Lu Rou Fan — which wins?

I've now had Lu Rou Fan prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises soy-braised pork in the way Taiwanese night markets are a pillar of social life and street food culture. The subtly sweet and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family dumpling house context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Taiwanese lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.