Traditional versus modern Pol Sambol — which wins?

I've now had Pol Sambol prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Maldive fish chips in the way Maldive fish is a uniquely Sri Lankan ingredient with no close equivalent elsewhere. The fiery and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Colombo rice and curry lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. ginger beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.