Traditional versus modern Lamprais — which wins?

I've now had Lamprais prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises goraka dried gamboge in the way Sri Lankan cuisine differs markedly between Sinhalese, Tamil, and Burgher traditions on the same island. The deeply coconut-rich character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Colombo rice and curry lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. arrack with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.