Traditional versus modern Fish Ambul Thiyal — which wins?

I've now had Fish Ambul Thiyal prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises pandan in the way Sri Lankan cuisine differs markedly between Sinhalese, Tamil, and Burgher traditions on the same island. The deeply coconut-rich character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Colombo rice and curry lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. ginger beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.