Traditional versus modern Croquetas — which wins?

I've now had Croquetas prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Jamón Ibérico in the way the tapas tradition developed as small accompaniments to drinks. The briny and complex character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a siesta-hour lunch restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Rioja red wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.