Traditional versus modern Crema Catalana — which wins?

I've now had Crema Catalana prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises saffron in the way the tapas tradition developed as small accompaniments to drinks. The deeply aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a tapas bar in Barcelona context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Estrella Damm beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.