Traditional versus modern Melktert — which wins?

I've now had Melktert prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises chakalaka relish in the way Cape Malay cuisine reflects the heritage of enslaved people brought from Southeast Asia. The smoky and braaied character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Cape Malay restaurant in Cape Town context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. rooibos tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.