Traditional versus modern Solyanka — which wins?

I've now had Solyanka prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises buckwheat in the way the Russian tea tradition using a samovar is centuries old and central to social hospitality. The rich and dairy-forward character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family New Year table context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. black tea from a samovar with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.