Traditional versus modern Olivier Salad — which wins?

I've now had Olivier Salad prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises salted herring in the way the Russian tea tradition using a samovar is centuries old and central to social hospitality. The subtly sour from fermentation character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Moscow restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. black tea from a samovar with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.