A dish that tells its story — Borscht reviewed

You can taste history in Borscht if you know what to look for. Russian New Year table is the most important annual food event, laden with Olivier salad, herring under fur coat, and other Soviet-era staples. The hearty and warming character reflects those layers — dill doesn't appear by accident; it came from a specific tradition.

The a Moscow restaurant setting made sense of it. You understand the food differently when the context is right. vodka alongside is part of that story. Some food is just fuel. Borscht, properly made, is something more. This version told the story well.