Traditional versus modern Caldo Verde — which wins?

I've now had Caldo Verde prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fresh sardines in the way pastéis de nata originated in Belém monastery in the 18th century. The bright with olive oil and garlic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a tascas lunch counter context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Sagres beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.