Traditional versus modern Barszcz — which wins?

I've now had Barszcz prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises dried mushrooms in the way the Christmas Eve wigilia meal has strict traditional rules including twelve meatless dishes. The deeply savoury with fermented notes character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Warsaw milk bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. kompot fruit drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.