Traditional versus modern Ceviche — which wins?

I've now had Ceviche prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises aji amarillo pepper in the way Peruvian cuisine blends indigenous Andean traditions with Japanese, Chinese, African, and Spanish influences. The bright and citrusy character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a coastal chicharronería context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. cold Cusqueña beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.