Traditional versus modern Rakfisk — which wins?

I've now had Rakfisk prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises dried stockfish in the way rakfisk fermented trout is an ancient preservation method still enjoyed at Christmas. The rich and slightly sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a seafood restaurant on the fjord context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. aquavit with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.