Traditional versus modern Lutefisk — which wins?

I've now had Lutefisk prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises lamb in the way Norwegian coastal geography shaped a cuisine centred on preserved and fresh fish. The clean and oceanic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a seafood restaurant on the fjord context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. brunost brown cheese with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.