Traditional versus modern Pozole — which wins?

I've now had Pozole prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Mexican chocolate in the way Mexican cuisine is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The deeply aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The an Oaxacan restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. horchata with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.