Traditional versus modern Char Kway Teow — which wins?

B
Benjamin
· July 24, 2023
4 out of 5

I've now had Char Kway Teow prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises galangal in the way Malaysian cuisine reflects the Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous Orang Asli traditions of a multicultural society. The sweet-savoury balance character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Penang hawker stall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. teh tarik with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.

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