Traditional versus modern Japchae — which wins?

I've now had Japchae prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises perilla leaves in the way the communal banchan side dishes are as important as the main. The fiery and fermented character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a home banchan spread context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. soju with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.