Traditional versus modern Tempura — which wins?

I've now had Tempura prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises dashi stock in the way seasonal ingredients guide the menu in traditional settings. The deeply savoury character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a ramen shop at lunchtime context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. cold Sapporo beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.