Traditional versus modern Takoyaki — which wins?

I've now had Takoyaki prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises mirin in the way seasonal ingredients guide the menu in traditional settings. The deeply savoury character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The an intimate Tokyo counter restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. sake with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.