Traditional versus modern Escovitch Fish — which wins?

I've now had Escovitch Fish prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises coconut milk in the way Jamaican jerk cooking traces to the Maroon communities who preserved meat with allspice and chilli. The smoky from the jerk pit character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Kingston jerk pit context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. rum punch with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.