Traditional versus modern Bammy — which wins?

I've now had Bammy prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises allspice pimento in the way Jamaican jerk cooking traces to the Maroon communities who preserved meat with allspice and chilli. The boldly spiced character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a roadside rum bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. sorrel drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.