Traditional versus modern Gelato — which wins?

I've now had Gelato prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Parmesan in the way ingredient simplicity and quality are the guiding principles. The rich and umami character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Neapolitan pizzeria context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. limoncello after the meal with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.