Traditional versus modern Israeli Salad — which wins?

I've now had Israeli Salad prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises za'atar in the way Shabbat and holiday meals follow religious traditions that shape the food served. The sesame-rich and nutty character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a fusion restaurant mixing Mediterranean traditions context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. arak with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.