Traditional versus modern Satay — which wins?

I've now had Satay prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises candlenut in the way rendang from West Sumatra is consistently voted one of the world's most delicious dishes. The complex from slow-cooked rendang character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Padang restaurant with displayed dishes context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Bintang beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.