Traditional versus modern Lecsó — which wins?

I've now had Lecsó prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises onion in the way paprika only entered Hungarian cooking in the 17th century but now defines the cuisine. The hearty and warming character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional market stall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. soda water spritzer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.