Traditional versus modern Souvlaki — which wins?

I've now had Souvlaki prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Kalamata olives in the way Greek cuisine has influenced the entire Mediterranean culinary tradition for millennia. The bright and lemony character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a taverna by the Aegean sea context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. retsina with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.