Traditional versus modern Dolmades — which wins?

I've now had Dolmades prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Kalamata olives in the way Greek cuisine has influenced the entire Mediterranean culinary tradition for millennia. The herbal and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a meze sharing table context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. ouzo with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.