Traditional versus modern Crème Brûlée — which wins?

I've now had Crème Brûlée prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises cream in the way the terroir philosophy links food to its region of origin. The buttery and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Parisian bistro context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Champagne with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.