Traditional versus modern Lumpia — which wins?

I've now had Lumpia prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises bagoong shrimp paste in the way kamayan feasts eaten with hands from banana leaves are experiencing a cultural revival. The subtly sweet and sour character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a beach seafood restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. San Miguel beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.