Traditional versus modern Fritada — which wins?

I've now had Fritada prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises aji criollo in the way llapingachos potato cakes are a highland staple tied to Andean agricultural tradition. The fresh and citrusy character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Guayaquil ceviche bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Club beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.