Traditional versus modern Stegt Flæsk — which wins?

S
Sarah
· November 04, 2024
4 out of 5

I've now had Stegt Flæsk prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises rye bread rugbrød in the way Danish New Nordic cuisine movement redefined fine dining globally in the 2000s. The clean and fermented character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Copenhagen smørrebrød lunch bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. aquavit with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.

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