Traditional versus modern Nakládaný Hermelin — which wins?

I've now had Nakládaný Hermelin prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Czech beer in the way Czech cuisine is inseparable from beer culture, one of the world's highest per-capita consumption nations. The malty from beer braises character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a ski resort lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Moravian wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.