Traditional versus modern Fritanga — which wins?

I've now had Fritanga prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises achiote annatto in the way Colombian cuisine varies dramatically between the coastal Caribbean, Andean, and Amazonian regions. The subtly sweet with tropical fruit character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The an Antioquia bandeja paisa restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. tinto black coffee with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.