Traditional versus modern Bandeja Paisa — which wins?

I've now had Bandeja Paisa prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fresh guanábana in the way Colombian cuisine varies dramatically between the coastal Caribbean, Andean, and Amazonian regions. The subtly sweet with tropical fruit character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a coastal Caribbean seafood restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. lulada lulo fruit drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.