Traditional versus modern Pastel de Choclo — which wins?

I've now had Pastel de Choclo prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises shellfish from Patagonia in the way the completo hot dog with avocado is a peculiarly Chilean street food obsession. The subtly sweet with mote character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Patagonian lamb restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. mote con huesillo peach drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.