Traditional versus modern Nanaimo Bar — which wins?

I've now had Nanaimo Bar prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Arctic char in the way poutine emerged from Quebec rural diners in the 1950s and became Canada's most internationally recognised dish. The fresh and clean character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The an east coast seafood shack context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Canadian rye whisky with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.