Traditional versus modern Montreal Smoked Meat — which wins?

I've now had Montreal Smoked Meat prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Quebec cheese curds in the way maple syrup production is a seasonal Quebec ritual celebrated at family sugar shacks. The rich and indulgent character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The an east coast seafood shack context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Molson Canadian with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.