Traditional versus modern Butter Tart — which wins?

I've now had Butter Tart prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Arctic char in the way poutine emerged from Quebec rural diners in the 1950s and became Canada's most internationally recognised dish. The sweet and savoury from maple character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a sugar shack cabane à sucre context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Molson Canadian with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.