Traditional versus modern Lok Lak — which wins?

I've now had Lok Lak prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fresh turmeric in the way Cambodian cuisine shares roots with Thai and Vietnamese cooking but has its own distinct identity shaped by Khmer culture. The fresh with lemongrass character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Phnom Penh riverside restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. palm wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.