Traditional versus modern Bai Sach Chrouk — which wins?

I've now had Bai Sach Chrouk prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises banana blossom in the way prahok is a uniquely Cambodian ingredient that foreigners find challenging but locals consider essential. The fresh with lemongrass character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional home kitchen context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Angkor beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.